July 16, 2009
Jowel' s Internship report
Internship Report
On
“Problems and prospects of woven garments industry in Bangladesh”
On Tusuka Group (Texel Ltd).
Submitted To:
Asian University of Bangladesh
Submitted By:
Jowel
ID # 200430409
Batch # 22nd
Section # Marketing (B)
Date of Submission: 5 December 2008
05 December 2008
Md. Abdul Matin
Director (Student’s Affairs)
Asian University of Bangladesh
Uttara, Dhaka.
Bangladesh
Subject: Submission of Internship Report
Dear Sir,
As per requirements for the fulfillment of the internship program, I am submitting the internship report entitled “problems and prospects of woven garments industry in Bangladesh” In Tusuka Group (Texel Ltd). As I have been working in Tusuka in Banani, Dhaka, my report thus focuses on the production procedures and the future prospect of woven garments industry in Bangladesh.
For all the necessary information and assistance, I would like to thank Mrs. Mita,Head of Human Resource Department.
I must mention here the name of Mr.Kamrul, Manager (Merchandisrer) of TUSUKA GROUP, who helped me a lot in preparing this Internship report.
I hope you will accept the report and that it meets the requirements of the University for Successful Completion of my internship.
Thanking You,
Md. JOWEL
(ID# 200430409)
Acknowledgement
First of all I would like to thank Md. Rafayet ullah Khan for providing me this opportunity to work on this internship report.
I must mention here the name of Mr.Kamrul, Manager (Merchandisrer) of TUSUKA GROUP, who helped me a lot in preparing this Internship report.
I would also like to thank Mita, Head of HRD,Tusuka Group for providing me all the necessary support to finish this extensive report.
I would like to thank the management of Texel Ltd. for accepting me into their internship program.
Special thanks to all team members for their tremendous support and words of encouragement and also thankful and grateful to Babu,Reza,Nowshad,Nazrul,Nazmul,Enayet and, other merrchandisers for providing me all the information of Tusuka Group(Texel)
Next, our gratitude goes to Mr.Ashraf, Head, Department of Business Administration, and the University of AUB. He helped me in processing the formalities of doing our work in there
I would also like to thank my parents and Almighty Allah for giving me the courage and support to complete my BBA program.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Content
Page No.
Acknowledgment
Executive Summery Of Tusuka Group
Part- 1 Organization Part
Brief History of Tusuka Group
Garments Merchandising
Garments Trims/Accessories
Activities of Merchandising Department
Kinds of Garments Industry
Departments of Tusuka Group
Part-2 Main Report Part
Name Of the Buyers Of Tusuka Group
Fabric Supplier Of Tusuka Group
Trims Supplier Of Tusuka Group
Store Of Tusuka Group
Job Responsibility Of Merchandiser
Essential Duties And Respnsibilities
Thread,
Interlining,
Label,
Buttons,
Zippers,
Elastic
Services Of Merchandising Team To Buyers
Execution Process Of Export Order
Sampling Facilities
Quality Assurance
Quality Control And Inspection Procedures
Sourcing Services
Factory Evaluation
Ctpat Audit
Part-3 QUALITY
Quality Procedure
Quality Depends On Some Factors
Quality In Sewing
Types Of Quality Checkers
Quality In Washing
Quality In Finishing
Checklist For Auditing Carton
Cost Of Failure
Remarks
Quality Control
Definition Of Quality
Dimension of Quality
The Great Value Of Quality
Controlling Quality
In-line Inspection
Section Supervisor
Finial Audit
Quality Procedures
Quality Drills
Points To be Checked:
Cutting Section
Spreading
Cutting
Others
Sewing Section
Finishing Section
Fabric Inspection
Grading System
4 Points
Types Of Reporting Format
Garments Defect
Classification Of Defect
Possible Garment Defects:
Fabric Cleanliness
Pressing
Stitching
Button Hole
Button Sewing
waistband
Belt Loops
Hem
Pockets
Zippers
Fly area
Labels
Final Inspection Of Garments
AQL
Garment Checking
Quality Planning
5 “S System
5 “S System Activities
5 “S System Steps
Documentation For Export:
Consular Invoice
Commercial Invoice
Certification Of origin
Shipping marks
Marks Of Origin
Compulsory Marks Of Origin
Corrective Marks Of Origin
Making method
Loading the Goods aboard Ship
Truck Transportation
Types of Tariffs
Export Transportation and Shipment
Alternative Shipping Methods
Import Quotas
Exchange Controls
Trading Blocks
ORGANISATION PROFILE
CONTACTS:
Head office: House no. 50 (5th floor), Road no –11,
Block-F,Banani ,Dhaka-1213 ,Bangladesh
Tel: 88-02-8826296, 8827745
Fax 88-02-8826297
Email: texel@tusuka.com; sajjad@tusuka.com
Web add: www.tusuka.com
Location: 15 Minutes drive South of Zia International Airport.
Key Personnel:
Mr.Arshad Jamal –Chairman
Mr.Mashiuzzaman Chowdhury –Managing Director
Mr.Fayzur Rahman-DMD
Mr.Rafayet Ullah Khan –Director
Mr.Feroz Alam-Director
Factory:
Unit 1: Tusuka Fashions Ltd
Add: Plot no: 10, Block – B, Tongi Industrial Area
Gazipur ,Bangladesh
Tel: 88-02-9802080, 9800530, 9804395
Fax: 88-02-9800530
Unit 2: Tusuka Jeans Ltd
Add: Konabari ,Gazipur ,Bangladesh
Unit 3: Tusuka Trousers Ltd.
Add: Konabari,Gazipur ,Bangladesh
Unit 4.Tusuka Processing Ltd (Laundary Division)
Add: Konabari,Gazipur ,Bangladesh
Number of Workers: Unit 1:1055 Unit 2: 1750 Unit 3: 3300 Unit 4: 1300
Total No. of Workers: 6,905
Size of Plant: Unit 1: 30,500 sft Unit 2: 75,000 sft Unit 3: 1, 63,000 sft Unit 4: 1, 40,000
sft
Total Size of Tusuka: 4, 08,000 sft
Machine: Unit 1: 343 sets Unit 2: 564 sets Unit 3: 1020 sets Unit 4: 285 sets
Total Machine: 2212 stes
Production Line: Unit 1: 4 Lines Unit 2: 6 Lines Unit 3: 12 Lines
Total Line: 22 Lines
Production Capacity Day: Unit 1: 6400 Pcs Unit 2: 9600 Pcs Unit 3: 19200Pcs
Total Capacity Day: 35,200 Pcs / day
Unit 4: 60000 Pcs Fabric Lead Time: 120 days
Product: Woven Bottom Man’s, Boy’s and Ladies (5 Pocket Jeans & Cargo Pants)
Contact: Md.Sajjad Hussain (Director Merchandising # 88-02-01713093612)
Bank: Uttara Bank Ltd
One Bank Ltd
Eastern Bank Ltd
4
BIMINIBAY
4%
PULL & BEAR
4%
AUCHAN
7%
PRIMARK
6%
H & M
29%
VF ASIA
27%
CARREFOUR
17%
SPORTSMAN
TESCO 1%
3%
PROVERA
2%
We are strong in various kind of denim fabric starting from 10 oz to 14.75 oz denim. Our 90 % production with
Denim fabric in various washing. Mainly we are working with following Denim mills:
01.Raymond India 06.Arvind India
02.PT APAC Indonesia 07.Moufung Hong Kong
03.Tak Sang Hong Kong 08.Shangdong China
04.Suntex Hong Kong 09.Atlantic Thailand
05.Lanyan China
RAYMOND
16%
PT APAC
16%
TAK SANG
15%
SUNTEX
10%
ARVIND
10%
MOUFUNG
8%
SHANGDONG
7%
ZIBO LANYAN
6%
ATLANTIC
6%
ARTISTIC
4%
MALWA
2%
We are also doing around 10 % production with heavy twill, Canvas and Corduroy, which we are
sourcing from China through our Hongkong office including all type of trims.
A BRIEF HISTORY
Texel Limited.
Texel made its first appearance as a garment’s buying house in 1992.Since its inception, this company has been working sincerely and steadily and today it becomes one of the largest quality jeans manufacturers in Bangladesh, well equipped with special machineries and washing facilities. Texel has a wide spectrum of jeans pants, which includes ladies & gents 5 pocket jeans pant and cargo jeans pants with all types of fabrications, especially with Denim. It is also doing around 10% production with Heavy Twill, Canvas and Corduroy, which the company is sourcing from China through its Hong Kong office.
Texel works as the parent company to the other members of Tusuka family and their main belief is quality,
Timely delivery and competitive price.
Units:
Within last few years, Texel Limited has gathered knowledge in woven garments and now the company has three
Manufacturing units,one laundry unit and one packaging unit.
Manufacturing Units:
• Tusuka Fashions Ltd.
• Tusuka Jeans Ltd.
• Tusuka Trousers Ltd
• Laundry Unit:
• Tusuka Processing Ltd.
TUSUKA FASHIONS LIMITED
Tusuka Fashions Ltd is located at Tongi only 7 kilometers from Dhaka International Airport. There are 1055
Employees engaged in the process of cutting, sewing, checking, finishing, quality control & stores to create the
Unique quality. This unit produces 6400 pcs of 5 pocket jeans pants or 4,800 pcs of cargo jeans pants per day &
Production area 30500 sft.
TUSUKA JEANS LIMITED
The garments sewing factory is located at Tusuka Complex. Konabari, Gazipur, 40 minutes from Dhaka
International Airport. The unit consists of two buildings, which accommodate a total space of 75,000 Sft. It has allthe specialized machines to produce 9,600 pcs 5 pocket jeans pant & 7200 pcs cargo jeans pant per day with a manpower of 1750. The production capacity per month is 312000 pcs. The factory mainly uses machines of Juki,
Kansai & Union Special brand to produce heavy weight pants.
.
TUSUKA TROUSERS LIMITED
A new factory with state and the art technology named Tusuka Trousers Limited at Tusuka Complex Konabari,Gazipur. It has all the specialized machines to produce 19,200 Pcs 5 pocket jeans pants or 14400 pcs cargo jeanspants per day with a man power of 3300 & production area of 1,63,000 sft.
TUSUKA PROCESSING LIMITED
The washing plant is equipped to produce high quality stone, enzyme & dying of jeans & casual wear. It is situated
At Konabari, the same complex of Tusuka jeans & Tusuka packaging. Computer operated machines produce consistent quality by the support of modern equipments to control water pH, steam pressure and temperature. The
Wastewater is pre cleaned & processes before discharged to the closed drainage system. The factory have 285 sets machines from all USA & EUROPEAN BRAND like Milnor, Washex, Lapow, Celso, Euro stone with a washing
Capacity 60000 pcs per day.
GARMENTS MERCHANDISING:
Texel Ltd, Tusuka Group
The term “merchandising” is well known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term merchandising has been derived from the term merchandise. Merchandise means good that are bought & sold.
The term “merchandiser” may be defined as the person who merchandises the goods. Garments merchandising means buying raw materials & accessories, producing required garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within time frame.
According to Kamrul,Texel, Tusuka, Merchandiser can do everything but he can not do anything directly is called merchandiser.
From the above definition we can assume that a person involved in garments merchandising need a wide range of knowledge & skill to perform his job successfully a merchandiser should possess the following basic knowledge and skill.
a) Good command of English and adequate knowledge of technical terms for accurate and efficient communication.
b) Good knowledge of yarn, fabric, and dyeing, printing, finishing, dyes color fastness garments production, etc.
c) Clear conception of usual potential quality problems in the garments manufacturing.
d) Good knowledge of the raw materials inception systems & garments inspection systems.
When an export order is given to a merchandiser, he has to schedule the following main function to execute the export order perfectly in time.
I. Fabric requirement calculations,
2. Accessories requirement calculations (e.g. -thread, button, interlining 1abet Poly bag, Cartoon etc.
3. Source of Fabrics
4 Sources of trims.
5. Possible date of arrival of fabrics & trims in the garments facto (TEXEL)
6 Costing.
7. Garments production planning.
8. Pre shipment inspection schedule.
9 Shipment documents.
10. Have to make proper & Action plan.
GARMENTS TRIMS:
Garments trims means all items used in the garment except the basic is called garments trims. There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments which are used as trims.
A list of few important trims is mentioned here.
a Sewing thread k. Hanger
b. Interlining I. Guru tape
c. Label m Scotch Paper
d Button n Tissue Paper
e. Zipper o. Plastic: clip
f Lining n. Tag pin
g. Shoulder Fad q. Collar insert
h. Elastic r: Collar bone
i. River s. Back Board
j. Poly-bag t. Neck Board .
Quality of trims as well as proper selection of trims is very important; otherwise the garments may be rejected returned by the customers.
Activities of Merchandising Department of Tusuka Group:
Activities of Merchandising Department are as follows:
• Communication with Buyers
• Procure Order & Order confirmation
• Costing
• Consumption
• Price Quoting
• Sample Control & Approval
• Potential Sourcing of Materials & Approval Fabric, Trims & Accessories
• Lab dipping & Approval
• Purchasing of Materials
• Testing
• Factory Scheduling / Planning
• Order Follow up: all steps of production & Quality
• Ensure On Time Delivery
• Liaison with the customer during Design, Sourcing, Production & Shipping
• Conduct coordination Meeting with other departments / Pre production meeting
• Attend Buyer’s meeting
• Ensure Customer Satisfaction
• Product Development etc.
There are three types of garment industry in RMG sector:
• Woven Garment Industry: The industry manufacturing garments and using woven fabric.
Ex: Shirt, Trouser. Blouse. Steeping gown etc.
• Knit Garment Industry (cut & sews): The Industry producing garments and using knitted fabric.
Ex: T-shirt. Polo shirt, Tank top etc.
• Fully Fashion Garment Industry: The Industry producing knitted garments and using yarn as main materials instead of fabric -
Ex: Sweater, Pullover. Cardigan etc.
Various Departments / Sections of TUSUKA GROUP are as follows:
1. STORE
2. SAMPLE
3. PATTERN
4. CAD/CAM/DESIGN
5. CUTTING
6. SEWING
7. FINISHING & PACKING
8. MERCHANDISING / MARKETING
9. QUALITY CONTROL / ASSURANCE
10. WORKSTUDY
11. COMMERCIAL
12. ACCOUNTS
13. PERSONNEL
14. PURCHASE / PROCUREMENT
15. MAINTENANCE
17. HRD
Name of the Buyers of Tusuka Group:
1. LIZ CLAIBORNE
2. AMERICAN EAGLE
3. AXCESS
4. AX TRANS 09
5. DKNY DENIM
6. DKNY NON DENIM
7. DKNY REPEAT NON DENIM
8. LIZ & CO
9. RUBBED RAW BLAST
10. TARGET
11. Z BIMINI BAY
12. PRIMARK
13. H&M
14. PULL& BEAR
Fabric Suppliers of Tusuka Group:
1. CALIK
2. JEMIEI TEX
3. LANYAN
4. MOU FUNG
5. NIEN HSING
6. SHANDONG
7. SHANGHAI SHELYEN
8. SUNTEX
9. TAKSANG
10.ANLE RIVER
Trims Suppliers of Tusuka Group:
1. A& E
2. BRILLIANT LABEL
3. COATS
4. PAXER/ A VERYDENSISON
5. SHORE TO SHORE
6. SML
7. TOPSON
8. WANFORD
9. YK BTN/RVT
10.YKK
Stores of Tusuka Group
Stores are available in some countries. The company has own stores in these countries.
1. Spain
2. France
3. Belgium
4. Hungry
5. Nether land
6. Portugal
7. Germany
8. Austria
9. Poland
10. Czech
11.Luxemberg
JOB RESPONSIBILITY FOR A GARMENTS MERCHANDISER:
The ideal candidate plays nicely with others and has a proven track record of success leading a team of graphic artists, an understanding of screen-print and with merchandising. Specific responsibilities include managing daily operations including providing supervision to employees as well as managing vendors, departmental communications, stylistic direction and managing associated budgets.
ESSENTIAL DUTIES AND RESPONSIBILITIES:
•Develops and maintains a clearly defined strategy in support of company’s mission, vision and objectives.
•Works closely with key individuals and teams to integrate strategic opportunities into the prioritized workflow. Ensure cross-organizational support and extraordinary results for customers and partners.
•Responsible for day-to-day operations including managing employees, vendors, communications, stylistic direction and associated budgets. This position will also provide support to customer service, Sunrise marketing, and product development.
•Carries out supervisory responsibilities in accordance with the organization’s policies and applicable laws.
•Manages and directs all pre-launch sampling and distribution of samples to salea&customers.
•Work with sales teams and design staff to provide cost estimates.
•Coordinates all aspects of tradeshow.
•Develops business internally by participating in Merchandising Team.
1. SEEWING THREAD:
There are various types sewing threads, which are used in the garments manufacturing industries e.g. 100% Cotton. 100% Polyester, Nylon, Viscose, Mono Filament, Multi Filament, Textured, and Core spun thread especially finished thread etc.
Amount all of them spun polyester thread is used in most cases. It is vary strong and have well colorfast. It can stand all kinds of rough washing such as stone wash, acid wash with its color unaffected. 100% Cotton threads should not be used unless you are making the garments for garment-day, because the cotton threads are expensive and easy to break down. Sewing threads are available in various types of package forms e.g. Spool, Cap, Cone, Vicone, Small vicone Container, Cacoon, Per-wound bobbin etc. Among the mentioned packages in most cases sewing threads are used in cone form. Within a cone length of sewing thread varies from 1000 to 500 meters.
2. INTER LINING:
The fabric which is used between two plies of garments basic fabric with an intention to make certain parts attractive, strong & retain those shapes for long times called interlining. Interlinings are of two types, non-fusible and fusible interlining.
At present days non-fusible interlinings are not used commonly. Types of fusible interlinings are available & price varies considerably.
Polyethylene coated interlining — Water wash
Polyethylene coated interlining — Water wash
Polyethylene coated interlining — Dry wash
PVC coated interlining — All types of wash, costly.
PVA coated interlining –Mild water wash
Care should also be taken during selection of interlining other wise there may be a great problem.
(a) Shrinkage of interlining should be less then the fabric shrinkage
(b) Color of interlining should not affect the color of garments in the fused area.
3. LABEL:
Label is a common accessory, which is to use in each garments. Within each garment no of label to be used more than one because there are various types of label to be used for various information. In the garment label you will get some information e.g.
Main label — name of company
Size label — Garments size
Price label Tag — Cost of garments
Composition label-fiber composition (Sometimes size in included)
Care label-Ironing & washing code, dying come (Instruction of garments care)
There sometimes also some components used out side/face side of the garment to increase the beauty or fashion of the garments is called motif. A sometimes motif bears the symbol, trademark etc.
Labels are available with various types, Qualities, & prices. Printer labels arc cheaper while labels manufactured in jacquard type label loom is expensive.
4. BUTTONS:
It is also common accessories used in the garments. It ‘may work as functional part as well as decorative item, Buttons are made from Nylon Polyester, Wood Bone, Purl, Metal etc. it may have two or four holes i.e. with shank.
Attaching of button in the garments is very important, usually it is attached by the button attach machine. If lock stitch type button attaching machine. It looks stitch type button a size also varies. To express the button size the term ligne” is used. 1 ligne O.638mm.
Melamine button
Sandwich button
Shank button
Plastic button
Horn button
5. ZIPPERS:
In the pant, trouser and jacket is a common component Metal or plastic-Teethes are used on narrow tapes of polyester or Nylons & those two series of teethes locked by a slider. Some times two sliders are used within a single zipper.
Usually zippers do not shrink after wash but increase of garments, which may shrink a wash then the sipper area, may look wavy.
6 ELASTIC:
Elastics are available in many sizes, shapes, stretched. The force required to stretch the & elastic also various depending on types of Elastic used. The elastic used in the bottom waistband of a jacket, vest or pull over shirt etc yeas should consider using the elastic with more tractability. For pants shorts, skirts (all buttons) the elastic should be of medium strechability. Elastic suppliers usually sell elastics by gross (one gross means 144 yards) unit, but if you measure one gross length you may get 140 yds. in most cases.
Elastic are supplied in roll form in production if you want to cut it into 20” length you should do it after relaxation of the elastic at east far a few hours
MERCHANDISING
Our merchandising team is committed to complete customer satisfaction. Our merchandising department consists of highly qualified team of merchandisers whose prime aim is to provide full satisfaction to our customer starting from the fabric procurement stage to shipment and reporting the status of the order to the buyers regularly.
The services our merchandising team provides to our clients are:
. Systematic follow-up on each stage of production and execution of order on time.
. Monitoring new trends in fabric, fashion and design.
. Locating new reliable sources to meet the requirements of the customer with regard to fashion and design.
. Introducing new samples to buyers to enable them to expand their business.
. Educate the customer about the characteristics of variety of fabrics, dyes, dyeing and printing process, and their positive and negative points and caution the buyers about the pitfalls involved.
. Liaison between the customer and our factories and follow-up.
. Guiding the supplier in preparation of the range to meet the customer's requirements with regard to fashion and design and negotiation.
In addition, we at Decent Printing and Design keep our buyers updated at every stage of their orders. Due to this, we prepare daily production report from the manufacturers unit. This report keeps the buyer updated about their order at every stage of the production process
Execution Process For A Garment
Export Order In A Factory (In Brief)
1) Order enquiry from buyer to factory: Merchandiser sits with
Production Manager for ship date planning. Enquiry on price (some times the target price is also given) Enquiry on ship date i.e. whether it can be shipped in due date?
2) Approval of order from buyer, as par the costing given by the merchandiser: Merchandiser makes Time and action Plan contain the details of the action be taken as per fixed date, in order to execute the shipment on the due date as committed to buyer).
3) Buyer Bank given Master L/C to the Factory:
Master L/C is the contract given to bank, which covers the total value of the export order.)
Commercial dept. deals with the follow-up of L/C matter.
4) B/B L/C is given to the suppliers of accessories and fabric etc:
Commercial department deals with the open up of B/B, L/C
Merchandiser deals with the follow-up of the materials on time.
5) Fit sample sent to buyer for the fit approval:
Merchandiser co-ordinates with sampling section, for the fit sample,And get it approved from the buyer for fit and measurement.
6) Pre-production sample submitted to buyer with original accessories and fabric:
P.P sample to be made from the production line
PP. sample approval from buyer means Merchandiser takes approval on style, original fabric & original accessories.
7) Fabric and trims to be in housed on due time as per time and action plan:
Inventory to be monitored by merchandiser so that there s no problem
In quality or shortage of quantity in fabric and accessories.
If thaw is any thing wrong prompt action to be taken by merchandiser.
8) Pilot production to be started as per time and action plan: Or Initial production mean consists of 100 to 200 Pcs.
Production manager and quality team should check very carefully about
The style and quality of the garment.
The measurement needs to follow as per buyers spec sheet.
9) On line inspection by buyers QC certifies the quality of the garment:
Buyer QC gives suggestion where are the quality defects and how to Improve on that.
10) Bulk production to be started as per the time and action plan:
Buyers Q.C monitor on the production and quality of garments.
Production manager and supervisor need to be very careful to meet
The production deadline or production target, to meet the ship date on time.)
11) In the moan time commercial section prepares the shipping documents:
Contact with shipping line for the booking of vessels. (For sea shipment).
12) Final inspection as per time and action plan:
Buyer’s QC. Do random inspection during final inspection
Only if buyer’s QC certifies the quality is satisfactory then only we can
Ship out the goods.
13) Goods are made ex-factory:
Goods send to seaport (sea shipment)
Goods send to airport (air shipment)
14) Goods handed over to the shipping line:
NOTE: NOW IN ANY CASE WE FAIL TO SHIP THE GOODS ON TIME AS PER THE DATE GIVEN ON MASTER L/C, BUYER WILL CANCEL THE GOODS OR WILL ASK FOR AIR FREIGHT I.e. F THE ORDER WAS IN SEA SHIPMENT.
(Airfreight may come nearly 4 to 5 times of a sea freight cost.)
SAMPLING FACILITIES
Besides nearly 1,000 sorts of fabric samples, we have in house sampling department with modern machines and equipped with state of the art technologies for the development of samples for our customers. Our sample makers have over 10 years experience in sample development. Our sample makers have developed the expertise of producing excellent quality of sample as per the need and requirements of the customer.
We encourage our potential
buyers to ask us for samples so that they can have an idea of the product and its workmanship. We can provide our potential customers with samples of our own designs from our collection.
In addition, we are very much willing to do the development of our clients' own designs and fabrics.
Our philosophy is to provide superior customer services to our valued clients in order to satisfy their needs a step further than the market.
Quality Assurance
At Decent Printing and Design, we are committed to quality requirements of the highest standard. We do not sacrifice on quality. We make sure quality is adhered to throughout our operation from sampling to final shipment. We take extra efforts in ensuring the suppliers comply with strict quality control. Quality Assurance is an inherent part of our services and we ensure that our customers do not face any problem at any stage.
Quality Control and Inspection Procedures
We normally follow AQL Level 4.0 inspection method, but on special case we follow any inspection method our customers require.
Our quality control and inspection procedure includes the following functions:
. Our Quality Assurance department checks all the fabric/Accessories to ensure that quality/color etc conforms to the order / style.
. Our Quality Assurance and merchandising team goes to factory location to evaluate pre-production (size set) sample, patterns, etc to approve for trial production.
. Quality Assurance team evaluates trial production and then finally approves for bulk production.
. As bulk production starts, our Quality Assurance team goes for inline inspection. This inline inspection during production is performed on daily basis.
. At the middle stage of production if (standard of quality) result is acceptable / good then we go for pre-final inspection. Here we check the case pack, carton quality, shipping mark, assortment, presentation etc.
. If the pre-final result is acceptable then we go for final inspection & if it passes, we approve for the final shipment.
.To ensure quality of the highest standard, we inspect at every stage of the production process. The following Quality & Inspection steps are being currently employed in sourcing and manufacturing:
- Accessories Inspection
- Knitted & Flannel Inspection
- Measurement Spec checking
- Accessories Inspection testing
- Accessories Color Matching checking
- Daily Cutting checking
- Fabric Inspection
- Lab dip testing
- Washing Fabric testing
SOURCING SERVICES
Proper sourcing is the key to success in Textile/garments business. Keeping this in mind, besides our own factories, Decent Printing and Design sources products from reliable vendors with a careful assessment of price and quality. We have built up an extensive sourcing network of dedicated Manufacturers and Exporters from all around China. In addition, we have reliable sources of raw material such as fabric, trim & accessories from many countries/area such as Korea, Taiwan, and Pakistan at very competitive prices.
Sourcing is our core strength, which distinguishes us from the rest of the market. We offer a complete sourcing package from design to delivery. Our sourcing department ensures great measures to evaluate the most suitable manufacturer and supplier for our client's requirements.
FACTORY EVALUATION
At Decent Printing and Design, we take an extra step to source the most appropriate vendor for our customers. Before selection we thoroughly evaluate Factory on the basis of the following assessment:
Factory design
. Financial performance
. Factory equipment & machinery
. Factory productivity
. Quota export performance
. Prevalent working procedures . Factory past performance
. Technical competency
. Factory personnel competency
. Factory reputation
. Level of professionalism
In addition, we have formulated a Factory Evaluation Form, which is filled out for every factory and then based on the physical, and financial assessment includes creation of a rating grade to the factory. This rating grade can determine the quantity of Garments it can manufacture for "Decent Printing and Design" as well as whether it has adequate production capacity. These services can be further extended in locally reliable fabric sources, dyers and printers, which ultimately promote quality of merchandise. This is an important process as no factory should be over booked, which causes delays in delivery and impacts production quality negatively.
Factory assessments are an ongoing process. Decent Printing and Design is constantly investing time and effort in finding new factories, which can meet the requirements of client in terms of fashion and price.
Shipping/Documentation
Being a supply chain service provider, we have the knowledge and expertise to provide total logistic and transportation solutions to our customers. Our qualified personnel work in close association with leading freight forwarders, air and shipping lines at various locations. In addition, we can provide you specific value added services by pre advising all shipments on a regular basis with tentative arrival dates
CTPAT Audit
Documents need to be checked during factory evaluation
• Written security policies.
• Records of all movement of raw materials/ components in & out to & from storage.
• Movement record register of all packed/ finished cartons & partially filled cartons from the packing area to the separate packed goods storage.
• Movement record register of all packed goods/ cartons in and out from the packed goods storage
• Movement record/register for dangerous goods/chemicals from storage.
• Enclosures (doors, windows, gates, fences ,etc ) checklist / checking record by security guards per shift.
• Empty truck checking records.
• Duty roster of security Guards of last 3 months.
• Visitors log book / records.
• Log book /records for incoming/outgoing goods with both weight & quantity details.
• Report / record of shortages & overages in incoming & outgoing goods/accessories.
• In the event of staff turnover, are there procedures & documents to control the return of keys or security access code changes?
• Previous job verification record of employees before hiring.
• Security training program & record.
QUALITY
Introduction:
In manufacturing, quality is the concept of making products fit for a purpose and with the fewest defects. Many different techniques and concepts have been tried to minimize defects in products.
Quality Assurance
"The establishment and maintenance of ALL activities and functions concerned with the attainment of requisite quality"
Quality Control
"The systems required for programming and co-coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organization to maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control
Specifications
Quality Control requires the establishment of adequate specifications with proper tolerances
Objective
To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the first time.
By considering such information it can be decided what requires to be monitored. Monitoring the process is the essence of quality control
Total Quality of a garment depends on the following factors-
1) Quality of Fabrics
2) Quality of Accessories
3) Quality of Cutting
4) Quality of Machines
5) Quality of Sewing
6) Quality of Washing
7) Quality of Finishing
In each stage there are quality controlling with quality checkers or controllers. Quality manager is responsible for total quality of a product. Quality controlling in different stages described bellow-
Quality of Fabric: There are some fabric inspectors, who check the fabric defects with fabric inspection machine. And follow “American 4 Point System” for better quality.
Quality of Accessories: Trim inspection bay at main store inspects the trims and accessories for quantity and quality.
Quality in Cutting: In cutting section there are 3 types of quality checkers.
They are-
a) Marker checking QC: Marker checking QC checks the marker used for cutting for any type of mistake or defect. He checks for the following things-
i) Style, size, color and type of marker
ii) Any drawing defects on marker
iii) Any overlapping of parts
iv) All parts present on marker
v) Ratio of marker is correct
vi) Check with hard pattern provided by technical manager if needed
b) Table or Lay QC: Table QC checks for lay defect and correct procedure for lay. He checks for the following things-
i) Marker length and lay length and proper allowance (1/2”+1/2”=1”) for lay length.
ii) Any fabric defect
iii) Pile of fabric is correct
iv) Tension of fabric
v) Salvage of fabric is outside the marker.
vi) Fabric nap is correct.
c) Bundle checking QC: S/He checks for total parts are present in a bundle. S/He checks the bundle with JC Penney 3 piece system. In this system he collects 3 pieces from the bundle and checks them for any fabric defect, size and shape and proper cutting.
There is also an auditor and AQL section at cutting for better quality controlling.
Quality in Sewing
Maximum quality controlling is in sewing lines as maximum defects occurred during sewing. Some common defects are-
1) Thread tension
2) Broken stitch
3) Raw edge
4) Wrong back tack
5) Puckering
6) Open seam
7) Skip stitch
8) Joint stitch
9) Fabric defects
10) Shading
11) Stains
12) Un-even shape
13) Down stitches
14) Up-down
15) Center out
16) Gap difference
17) Poor ironing
18) Holes and damages
19) Slanted
20) Missing Bar tack
21) Marking mistake etc.
There are 3 types of quality checkers in sewing line.
They are-
a) End Post QC: Check for defects after some specific operations. They make two kinds of report. One is “Sewing Quality Inspection Report” and another is “Repair Report”.
b) Final QC: They inspect the whole garment after sewing complete. They also use the same report as End Post QC. Additionally they also do “Measurement Chart Fit Audit”
c) Roving QC: They audit an operator randomly using “Random Number Table” and collect any 7 pieces of garment (JC Penney 7 piece System) from him and check for defects. If he doesn’t find any defects than whole lot get pass. If he finds any one major defect in any garment than he declares the whole lot fail and hang a “Red card” near the Un-cleared operator.
Also there is some Technician who concerned for better quality. AQL department in sewing lines, audit the garments with specific AQL rating system and pass the garments only if they satisfied the Buyer accepted DHU level for passing.
Quality in Washing
Shading is the main quality problem in washing. There is a quality checker who matches the garments with approval shade after each wash.
Quality in Finishing
For better quality there are several quality posts in finishing. First step is Process wise inside checking, then Process wise out side checking and last step is final quality Checking.
And there are also two audits in finishing.
They are-
1) Hourly Audit (Internal): They audit randomly any 7 pieces in each hour from a line. If they find any major defect in any 1 piece than audit goes to fail and whole garments in that line have to check again. Otherwise audit pass and garments goes to carton packing.
2) Carton Audit (External): They audit any 3 cartons from each line. They check for external matters like Tag, size, ratio, color etc. If find any major defects in any piece of any carton, the audit fail and all carton have to check and pack again.
Note: After passing the external audit garments are ready for shipment.
Checklist for Auditing Carton:
The followings, we have to check while auditing a carton.
1) Barcode/Shipping mark
2) Assortment
3) Size label
4) Match box
5) Sticker
6) Shade
7) Ratio
8) Also for size, presentation of garments, looseness or tightness, folding, dimension etc.
Cost of Failure:
The main costs of failure due to poor quality are-
1) Losses due to faulty and spoilt work
2) Examiners records
3) Reprocessing
a. Additional materials
b. Extra labor
c. Disruption of production
5) Administrative Costs
a. Reaching agreement with customers
b. Replacing defectives or complaint adjustments
Remarks:
1) Better quality makes the production rate better and also satisfied customer or buyer. If quality is poor then we need much time to repair the altars, which decrease the over all production rate.
2) Roving auditor using red card for poor quality of an operator. He also can use a green card for better quality of an operator, which will inspire him and others for better quality.
QUALITY CONTROL
According to my sub objective quality is a fact to survive in a post MFA situation for competitive market. The factory Lenny Fashion Ltd. is also concern about it, and they show interest about better techniques of quality and its controlling system. I have just going to introduce it and presenting some core activities those will be very much helpful to increase the product quality and its assurance system. I have also mention here the new 5s system that will help to decrease the cost.
Definition of Quality-
Quality has been with us since the dawn of civilization; however science, after second world war it has been used more as a competitive weapon or competitive advantage. In order to understand this we can have a looked at Japan. In the first few years after the Second World War Japan was rebuilding from the war, many business executives through training in quality, which conducted by dr. deeming at Japan. These executives took the quality messes to heart and we can seethe resold today, which are taken obvious to mention.
Some other countries such as South Korea, Taiwan and Singapore in Asia /pacific followed this model and became very successful in the world arena.
Quality is a complex concept. No single definition addressee the entire dimension, areas of impact and concerns related to quality. The term itself is used in many ways fro many reasons, each use reflect a different perspective based on philosophy, economics consumers behavior, production each. Definition may focus a holistic perspective, the impact of quality on the organization income, the changing market place, the nature of a product or service, the way a product or service conform to specifications or the ability of a product or service to meet customers needs. And satisfy their demands. Companies and their employees need to understand how quality affects organizations.
Eight dimensions of quality
1. Performance
2. Features
3. Reliability
4. Conformance
5. Durability
6. Serviceability
7. Aesthetics
8. Perceived quality
The great value of Quality:
Many talk about the importance of quality in soft goods but not everybody recognize show important it really is. In most cases one employee that produces bad quality can greatly affectsalesforacompany. A study in the U.S. showed that an average individual will probably spend about $70,000 through his life buying from one brand that he is comfortable with .Most sales are repeat sales so you can potentially loose about $70,000 of business if this customer suddenly becomes unsatisfied. In the production floor it is sometimeshardtoimaginethatone skipped stitch can cause customer dissatisfaction please recognize that, if something is not as specified, it is defective. Defectsareawaste!
Let's see what happens to defective garments in the factory: If a defective unit is found you have two possibilities: That it can be repaired, that it can’t. 'Seconds' are sold at a loss by the factory. Units to be repaired are also an extra cost because extra costs are incurred in 1) handling the unit before repair, 2) extra labor and materials in repairing and 3) extra handling to get it back with the first goods. The time consumed on repairing defective goods can always be used to produce first class goods. In all cases defective units are costs for the factory. "Do it right the first time" is the key to success.
To ensure quality we need to do a number of things:
1. Recognize who the customer is
2. Build processes that anticipate and prevent defects
3. Make a plan to achieve the desired quality level
4. Set up ways to measure our progress
5. Work as a team to achieve the goal
Receive Sewing Finishing
A good plan requires:
1. A clearly defined objective
2. Goals or expected results
3. The activities needed to achieve the desired results
4. Defined roles and responsibilities for the activities
5. Dates for the begin and completion of each activity
6. An analysis of potential problems
Measurements are a vital part of any quality improvement program. Anything that is not measure does not improve. We need to establish these standard measures and measure the progress periodically
Teamwork is also an essential element for the success of the program. Remember, "Not ONE of us is better than ALL of us". The whole effort needs to have a direction that a team leader will provide.
The Executive's Job Related to Quality
There are two separate areas of dealing with quality that an Executive becomes involved in:
1. Handling repairs
Getting repairs corrected and work back into the production flow.
2. Preventing repairs
Working with operators to prevent repairs (correct at the source).
• Which one is the most important?
• Which one is the most effective way to control quality?
• Which one should be the Executive's primary aim?
• Which one takes up the majority of your time?
Answer honestly.
To Control Quality
1. Have the proper approach toward operators
• Approach operator with defective garment
• Ask operator kindly to stop her work and pay you attention
• Explain defect found and ask if she understands why garment is defective
• Make sure operator understands why it is defective
• Try to find out why the defect was created or why it was not detected at the workstation
• Restate the company's commitment to quality
• Ask operator to inspect the current bundle for more defective parts and then repair All parts that are out of tolerance including the one found by the inspector. This Should be done immediately Stay and observe sewing method Make sure method is being followed
2. Train operators to sew with good quality from the beginning
3. Know quality specifications and tolerances
Be sure you understand what constitutes good and poor quality.
4. Be consistent in your decisions toward quality.
5. Comment on both good and bad qualify. We all have a tendency to be silent during good times and vocal during the bad.
6. Be sure to check each operator's work daily. The amount of defects found should govern the amount of inspections performed. Vary inspection times and inspection sequence. Check into middle of bur-die. Do not always look at only the top garments.
7. Use a checklist - do not rely on memory of specs.
8. Do not rely on inspectors to tell you the quality level of your operators.
9. Never give the impression that you think work is OK but inspector will not pass it. If you do have this problem, resolve it with plant manager away from operators. Quality Control Procedures Summary
In-Line inspection:
During the production of garments the operator's finished work is audited in an in-line inspection. A quality inspector move's from one operator to another at random inspecting a predetermined number of parts from a finished bundle.
In-process inspector
If the in-line inspector finds a defect n a part he is inspecting he should:
1. Take defective part/parts out of the bundle
2. Take part to the operator's immediate supervisor
3. Give the part to the supervisor to examine while inspector explains the defect found.
4. Decide with the supervisor whether it is actually a defective part send if defective the supervisor should return the part to the operator.
5. Go back to the operator and mark the bundle as rejected with a red card or cloth and fill in the appropriate paperwork for the inspection and mark the workstation with the quality banner to signal that follow/-up bundles have not been cleared.
6. Continue to the next operator selected randomly from the list of operators and perform the inspection based on the approved sampling plan.
7. If an operator has a bundle rejected then all bundles coming from that operator are going to be checked by the quality inspector until three consecutive bundles are free of defects. At this point
the red quality banner will be removed. Follow-up bundles are inspected in the same fashion (audit not 100% inspection)
8. The quality banner helps the inspector remember to inspect the follow-up bundles from that operator and also helps the supervisor identify what operators are having quality problems.
9. Make sure that the element of surprise exists when doing an inspection. Inspections should always be performed at random and should never follow patterns. Following a predetermined path in the line can hint operators you are going to inspect their work next. Inspect operators at random
10. Make sure that only the defined number of units is inspected. No more, no less.
11. The units inspected should always be taken randomly from the bundle to ensure that the sample taken is representative from the bundle. Taking samples only from the top of the bundle is not correct and can give skewed results.
12. The frequency at which the inspections are taken is vital. Spend only the necessary time inspecting a bundle so you can have a larger number of inspections daily.
Section supervisor:
If a quality inspector approaches the supervisor with a defective unit he or she should:
1. Greet the inspector do not ignore him/her. Inspect the part according to the quality specifications
2. If it is defective let the inspector know you understand it is a defective part and you are going to address the part with the operator.
3. As soon as possible take the part to the operator and approach the situation appropriately:
• Approach operator with defective garment
• Ask operator kindly to stop her work and pay you attention
• Explain defect found and ask if she understands why garment is defective
• Make sure operator understands why it is defective
• Try to find out why the defect was created or why it was not detected at the workstation
• Restate the company's commitment to quality
• Ask operator to inspect the current bundle for more defective parts and then repair all parts that are out of tolerance including the one found by the inspector. This should be done immediately,
• Stay and observe sewing method
• Make sure method is being followed
If necessary review the operator's card with the operator to see if this was an isolated occasion or if it is a recurring problem. Try to motivate the operator to continue working with good quality.
The supervisor leaves the operator repairing the defects the supervisor should return after
some time to make sure all work has been inspected and the defects repaired. Before the bundles continue to the next operation the supervisor should be sure that there are no defects in them. All bundles coming from that operator are going to be checked by the quality inspector until three consecutive bundles are free of defects. If there are defects in the bundles following a rejection, you could say the supervisor is no; doing a good job of ensuring quality in that operation.
100% inspection
At the end of a section there will be an inspection made to all parts exiting the section. The inspections should be effective in identifying all defects in a garment. To ensure all seams and quality characteristics are inspected in a short period of time a defined inspection method should be followed.
The inspection operators should have their forms filled out correctly. A good source of information to determine the quality performance of the section is the point of 100% inspection. The section supervisor should check the quality level at the point of 100% inspection periodically.
From the 100% inspection forms the supervisor should analyze what are the operators /operations with the highest defect frequency. For these operators/operations the supervisor should identify the type of defects found most often, the cause (machine/method), and the frequency at which the type of defects happen. With this information the supervisor should address the problems, correct the possible causes and make plans to prevent them. The inspection form is totaled 4 times a day so a supervisor can actually see the results of what he or she has done to stop defects,
Final Audit:
A final audit should be performed on packed items. When the boxes are ready to be shipped a certain number of units should be inspected.
Using the MIL-STD-105D determine how many garments need to be inspected.
Randomly select a number of boxes from the lot that contain the determined amount of units to be inspected. For example, if there are 75 boxes of 10 garments each and I need to inspect 80 units I would open one box and inspect 5 garments, another box and inspect 7 garments, another and inspect all 10 garments, and so on until I have inspected a total of 80 garments.
After entering all the information in-o the Final Audit form, the final inspector should determine if the lot was accepted or not. Any rejected lots should be addressed promptly to minimize the chance of having a late order.
Quality procedures in the Cutting Area
During the cutting process the factory should ensure quality by having a Spreading Inspection, a Cutting Inspection, and a Final Audit.
During Spreading the following is checked-.
1. The side of the spread should be aligned +/- 1/8
2. The base marker should be aligned parallel to the length of the table
3. The splice points should be identified on the base marker before spreading
4. All splices should be marked with paper that is at least Vz yd longer than the overlapped fabric
5. The overlap of fabric at a splice point should exceed at least 2" on either side of the parts in the splice
6. The fabric laid should extend 1-1.5" outside of the marker
7. The fabric laid should never be less than the marker's width. The fabric width should be at least inches wider than the marker.
8. The spread fabric should be relaxed, not stretched, and wrinkle-free before cutting.
9. No defective fabric should be laid unless there has been an official authorization.
During Cutting the following is checked'.
1. The marker lines should be followed. You can go out of the line by 1/8" max but never cut into the part. In other words, you should always be able to see the marker lines.
2. All notches should be located correctly with a depth of %" +/- 1/16"
3. The markers should be attached to the stack of parts with approved stapes or pins
4. When cutting care should be taken not to shift the stack of parts to a since or to cut with the blade at an angle.
In bundling and shade marking care should be taken to ensure that this numbering is correct. In other words, no skipped numbers. The bundled parts should be grouped correctly: 3b fronts with 3b backs with 3b yokes, and so on.
For the final audit process, the quality inspector will determine how many bundles to check from every size according to the MIL-STD-105D.
Each of these bundles will undergo the following inspection-
1. All parts from the same shade number should not have shade differences.
2. All parts have the proper shape according to the marker
3. All parts must have all notches in the correct location and with the appropriate depth.
The contact that a supervisor and the operator have during the Quality Drill is very valuable. During this time the commitment of everyone to guarantee a job well done is strengthened. At this time the operator should be encouraged to learn what the requirements for his operator are and he is complimented if he knows them wholeheartedly and works to achieve them every lime.
This exercise should be performed on standard time and at least once a day. If you are having quality problems with an operator you should increase the frequency of the exercise even to one exercise an hour. It is necessary that the trainer and the supervisor explain the importance of the Quality Drill to the operators stressing that its; sole purpose is to help them improve their quality. The initial resistance by the operators is normal, but as soon as positive results from exercise are seen, the operators 'A/ill takes the initiative to do the exercise themselves.
Quality Drills:
The production supervisor is responsible of the operator's work so it is of almost importance that he or she has control over the quality level at which the operators produce. To prevent repairs and to ensure good quality there is a useful tool called "Quality Drill". It is very effective in making operators quality conscious.
During this exercise you confirm to the operator the commitment to good quality that the company has made and motivate him/her to produce with quality.
The procedure is the following:
1. Ask the operator to stop what he is doing and stand up.
2. Give the masking tape to mark defects
3. Ask the operator to inspect, based on the Quality Specification, the bundle in which he is working on, the bundle he has already finished, and the bundle he is going to work on next. This way the operator has the chance to see if the work he is doing is of good quality and also make sure that the work he is receiving from the previous operation is not defective.
4. Ask the operator to mark any part that is out of tolerance with the tape
5. Ask the operator to do it while standing up and when he or she is finished he should signal the supervisor that he is ready to have the results evaluated.
6. The supervisor makes sure that the instructions have been understood and then leaves to continue with the regular activities.
7. When the operator has signaled that he is finished, the supervisor returns
8. The supervisor then proceeds to inspect at random a number of parts of any bundle. If he is to find a defective part he should separate it and ask the operator why the part was not identified. If there are no defective parts found by the supervisor he turns to the operator and asks the operator to show him the defective parts he found.
9. If the operator has found no defects then the supervisor should select a part and ask the operator to explain why this part is of acceptable quality. The operator should be able to explain why based on the points described in the quality specification.
10. If defective parts have been identified then the operator should explain v/why they are defective based on the points described in the quality specification.
11. If the supervisor notices that the operator is not very clear of what the requirements for his operation are or how to find out if these requirements have been met or not, then the quality specification sheet should be reviewed point by point.
12. If the supervisor notices that the operator "overlooks" the defects then the supervisor should review with him the importance of doing a job properly every time.
Section wise quality control:
To ensure the quality of the product, quality control personnel have to control quality in different section / department in clothing, which are directly or indirectly involve with production.
Controlling areas are as follows:
Store:
• Inventory
• Fabrics and other material inspection
• Material testing
• Cleanliness
• Swatch board making
• Reporting
Sample:
Quality control personnel must check sample before sending it to the buyer.
Important points to be checked:
Whether the samples are as per buyers specifications or not, such as style description, sketch measurement sheet, photograph etc. and workmanship has to be checked with reference sample or related documents provided by the buyer. Report to be submitted to the merchandiser as well as to the superior.
Cutting section:
Pattern marker: pattern and marker must be checked by the quality control personnel check points are s follows;
• Measurement,
• Gradation,
• Allowances,
• Pattern parts missing,
• Mixed parts,
• Pattern shape,
• Direction of pattern in the marker,
• Pattern alignment with respect to the grain line,
• Poor line marking,
• Marker too wide than fabric width,
• Notches and drills marks omitted,
• Mismatch checks and strips,
Overlapping,
Too thick line or double line marking,
Invisible line marking,
Marker incorrectly positioned on the lay,
Spreading:
During spreading following should be checked:
• Fabric relaxation,
• Incorrect tension of plies,
• Wrong direction of plies,
• Unacceptable damages found,
• Mismatching of checks and strips,
• Narrow fabric,
• Shaded fabric,
• Misalignment of plies.
Cutting:
During cutting the following points should be checked:
• Inaccurate cutting,
• Notches – misplaced, too deep, angled, omitted or wrong type
• Drills –marks –wrong drill, omitted angled,
• Knife cut- garment parts damaged by careless use of knife,
• Frayed edges scorched or feud edges caused by faulty knife.
• Slits opened inaccurately or omitted.
•
Others:
• Bundling with bundle card,
• Numbering,
• Cut panel checking,
• Wrong size in the bundle,
• Fused parts checking,
• Cleanness,
• Proper raking/ storing.
• Proper issuing,
• prefer test cutting than bulk cutting,
• Reporting.
Sewing section:
Quality control system for sewing section:
There are some systems are in practice in the sewing floor are as follows:
• Traditional system
• JC penny system
• Traffic light system
• SPC.
In line checking criteria:
During construction of garments the processes / components must be checked in the line as follows:
o As per pre- production meeting some critical process to be checked in the sewing line. (Randomly or 100%)
o Each and every process must be checked.
o Auditing / monitoring.
o Cleanliness (in the line and work place)
o Reporting.
End line checking criteria:
After completion of the garment in the sewing line ,it has to be checked further at the end of the line.
• Inspector will check all process of a garment. Sample may be picked randomly or 100%.
• Reporting.
Other:
• Transportation section-to-section or stat ion.
• Proper machine
• Maintenance
• Proper attachment each.
• Cleanness (floor/ line / work place)
Points to be considered:
Points to be considered during controlling quality in the sewing line are as follows:
• In line inspection should be performed at the work station.
• Inspector ratio in the line depends on the system being implemented in the line.
• As per JC penny system, one inspector for 30 operations. All operations are audited minimum twice a day, where operator are minimum skilled.
• As per pre production meeting inspector will be provided considering the controlling system.
• Number of inspectors in the line depends on number, of operation of the style being produce and number of machine in the line.
• Defect and measurement both should be checked in the line.
• 1/4 inch, masking tape or arrow sticker to be used to indicate the defects.
• Number of pieces , to be inspected a) randomly) 100% ,c) 7 sample per bundle( up to 180 units per bundle) as per JC penny . N the inspector should check complete bundle/ complete process.
• The inspector must select the units at random basis from a bundle/ from the complete units.
• The inspector must inspect exactly the number of units called for the sampling plan. No more no less or as per the system.
• The inspector must rove the s/ line as per the instruction of the superior.
• If more than one inspector rotates them so that the same inspector does not inspect the same operator too long.
• If the inspector finds a defective unit, corrective action should be taken.
• To ensure that the problem has been corrected the inspector re- audit the corrected bundle inspecting 7 units at random from the entire bundle/ or re- check the corrected unit or as per the system.
• The concern production supervisor should rectify defective units with the same operator.
• For product that is not in bundle from, it is recommended that a statistical inspection based on AQL.
Finishing section:
This final section to make the product saleable condition and the finishing processes should be controlled to achieve the quality target. For wash garments100% check is required after receiving the garment from the washing plant. Defective garments should be rectified and reject pcs. Should sort out. Checking:
• Iron / press
• Folding
• Tagging /sticking
• Packing
•
Audit:
Audit can be performed in the sewing floor as well as in the finishing section or whatever required.
Mini- Qc:
It is a new concept, yet to be implemented in Bangladesh but its very effective quality control activity to achieve the quality target.
Introduction to Fabric Inspection:
Fabric inspection is one of the most important quality control activities in clothing industry. This involves the inspection of-the fabric in order to quantify the patent defects found in fabrics. During this process other details could be collected without, any additional cost and these details can be used to minimize waste.
After fabric is received, it should be inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality viewpoint. Otherwise, extra cost in garment manufacturing may be incurred due to either the loss of the material or time, to say nothing of customer returns and dissatisfaction due to poor quality.
In many small companies the same personnel do spreading and cutting and fabric is inspected as it. is being spread on a table for cutting. Regardless of what practice is followed, the important point is that the fabric should be inspected before cutting, the defects marked and the patterns cut. Around the defects so as not to include them in the finished garment
The main raw materials Used in the manufacture of garments are fabric. About 60% or more of the value of a garment can be attributed to fabric. In order Lo maximize profit; the fabric should be used efficiently. Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machines. These machines are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted top behind the inspection machine and the fabric will run over the inspection table under adequate light, re-rolled as they leave the table. Defects in a fabric can be seen readily with these machines, as the inspector has a very good view o!' the fabric. These inspection machines are either power-driven or the inspector pulls the fabric over the inspection table. The defects are located, marked and recorded on inspection findings or reporting format. Such machines are also equipped lo accurately measure the length of each roll of fabric as well as monitor the width of the fabric.
Objective of Fabric Inspection:
The objective of fabric inspection is to ascertain whether the fabric received is of the expected Quality standard or not. The main objective is, detection of fabric defects and non-conformances early as possible, So that the time and money are riot wasted in the manufacturing process. The ultimate goal of any quality control activity in clothing industry is to satisfy the customer.
Importance of Fabric Inspection:
As we know that fabric are the main and costly raw materials of a garment. So it is very important to use fabric efficiently and control wastage of fabric. On the other hand fabric defects are the maximum defects of garments, for which many-unexpected problem may occur in a clothing industry. Such as-short shipment, discount, low price etc.
To avoid all above problems and to take preventive measures fabric inspection is very important for a clothing industry. It is also important for the following aspects:
• Improved product quality,
• Minimize waste,
• Reduce the cost
• Avoid short shipment
• Increase productivity.
Grading Systems
There arc-different types of standard grading systems in practice. A system is agreed or selected by mutual acceptance between supplier and buyer.
Some of the available grading systems are given below:
• 4 point system
• 10 point system
• Graniteville '78' system
• 6 point system
• Dallas system
4 Point System
Penalty points are assigned according to size of defects.
Warp and Weft Directions
Length of the defect penalty points
Up to 3" 1
3"-6" 2
6"-9" 3
more than 9" 4
Maximum penalty points per yd. are 4. Defects within 1/2 of selvedge disregarded.
The system is recommended for use where smaller -defects are critical and for fabric of wider widths and also this is very suitable for sample inspect ion.
Types of Reporting Format:
(1) (Sheet 1) Normal inspection - the type of sheets usually used in inspecting fabric.
(2) (Sheet 2) Special sheet to show distribution of defects within the roll.
(3) (Sheet 3) Special sheet to show location of defect within each yard.
• Defects such as colors variation, skew ness, and bowing are not considered in awarding penalty points. The expected fabric quality should be specified and agreed with the Supplier at the time of negotiation. By inspecting the fabric, the quality can be improved, but it could be used to minimize waste.
Garment defect:
Product variation is a normal result of the manufacturing process. It is impossible in make each garment exactly the same. In order 10 establish acceptable levels of variation; Tolerances should lie slated as a pan of product specifications.
Defect:
Variations that exceed tolerances or do not meet specifications arc called detect. Garment Defect can be defined as below: Any irregularities or deficiencies in the fabric Materials used, in (cutting, Construction Assembling Knitting, linking , pressing or in the Finishing of a garment that adversely affects its appearance, serviceability or sale ability or do not meet the specifications and exceed the tolerances is garment defect.
Classification of Defects:
Generally, three main categories of defects are classified for the garment standards as per defects guide. '1 lie categories of defects are as follows:
• Critical Defect
• Major Defect
• Minor Defect
Critical Defect: A defect that is likely to result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for an individual in consuming or using the product, or that is contravenes any mandatory regulations. Major Defect: A defect that is likely to result in failure, reducing the usability or serviceability of the product. Any obvious appearance of defect will affect the sale ability of the product. Most of the cases garments are rejected. Minor Defect: A defect that dose not reduces the consumption or sale of the product is nevertheless a workmanship error beyond the quality standards.
It is recommended, at the manufacturer level that defects may be at the borderline between Major and Minor should classified as Major, for the sake of emphasis in activating corrective action. ,
Factors to be considered for classification of defects:
• Location of defect
• Size of the defect
• How visible the defects from 18" distance.
• End use of the product
POSSIBLE GARMENT DEFECTS:
Materials/fabric:
1. Hole or surface Haw that could develop into hole.
2. Slues that is easily distinguishable
3. Distinctive shading
4. Dye spots misprints, or out-of-register prints.
5. Cut, tears or visible surface repairs
6. Bow or skew exceeding 1.5 percent.
7. Plaids, checks, or horizontal stripes dial are conspicuously out of match at
center front or back of a product.
Cleanliness:
1. Soil, Spots, stains or Dust
2. Attached thread clusters
Pressing:
1. Burn or scorch marks
2. Glaring shine marks
3. Press marks from camps
4. Absence of pressing when specified
5. Products packaged moist after steam pressing
6. Improper pressing
7. Seams not lined up when specified for center leg crease
8. Loops twisted after pressing
9. Pressed-in creases uneven
Seams and Stitching:
1. Twisted, roped, or puckered scams
2. Open or broken stitches
3. Raw edges when covered edges are specified
4. Scams not back stitched or bar tacked when specified
5. Irregular or uneven top stitching
6. Scam grin-through
7. Any part of product caught in scam or stitches
8. Any exposed drill holes
9. Length of legs off by more than 3/8 in.
10. Stitch count not conforming to specs
11. Stitch or scam type not conforming to slices
12. Label is not correctly attached
13. Sewn on design attached at incorrect place and sewn not according to specs
14. Double needle stitch on crotch seam; t not specified
15. Use of monofilament thread, other than where specified
BUTTON HOLE:
1. Size within specs
2. Ragged edges
3. Uncut buttonhole
4. Out of 'alignment or improper spacing
5. Stitch depth too narrow or wide
Button/Button Sewing:
1. Button not securely attached
2. Butler-missing
3. Broken or damaged button
4. Out of alignment or improper spacing
5. Button not to specs
6. Lack of support materials on fragile fabric
7. Buttons that crack, chip, discolor, rust, bleed, melt or otherwise cause
consumer dissatisfaction when care label is followed
Waistband:
1. Uneven in width
2. Excessive fullness, puckering or twisting
3. Closure misaligned
4. Belt loops are crooked
Belt Loops:
1. Not fully secure
2. Extend above waistband
3. Missing tacks
4. Color shade not to specs
5. Thread shade not to specs
6. Raw edges showing
Front and back:
1. Uneven at bottom hem
2. Under facing showing
3. Pockets conspicuously uneven
4. Darts uneven in length
5. Darts poorly shaped
6. Spot shirring not even right and left sides
Hems:
1. Twisted, roped, puckered, pleated, or excessively visible from exterior
2. Uneven in width
3. Uneven length of product unless specified
Pockets:
1. Not uniform in size and shape
2. Misaligned horizontally or vertically
3. Crooked
4. Missing bar tack, back tack or rivet where specified
5. Bar tack or rivet not as specified
6. Sewn-in pleats or puckers
Zippers:
1. Any malfunction in operation
2. Tape does not match color specs
3. Wavy /.zipper
4. Exposed /zipper that detracts from product's appearance
5. Irregular or uneven stitching
6. Crooked or uneven placket
7. Bar tack missing or incorrectly located at bottom or base of zipper
Gripper:
1. Misaligned
2. Missing or incorrect
3. Defective in operation
Fly area:
1. Width is not uniform
2. Bottom stop not securely clinched
3. Top of zipper not caught in band
4. Either side of fly extends past other side by excessive amount
Labels:
1. Labels are not correct
2. Located in correct location
3. Insecurely attached
DEFECTS
ZONE A
ZONE B
Materials
* Hole, (tear, cut, fabric run, dropped stitch
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Permanent crease
M AJOR
MAJOR
* Permanent stain
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Washable stain
MAJOR
MINOR
* Loose threads
MAJOR
PER SEVERITY
* Frayed edges
MAJOR
PER SEVERITY
Seam and Stitching
* Open Seams
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Under stitching (Less stitches per inch
PER SEVERITY
MINOR
than Spec)
PER SEVERITY
MINOR
* Overlap stitching
PER SEVERITY
PER SEN TRITV
* Double stitching
Shade and color
* Off Shade
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Mismatched color
MAJOR
MAJOR
Label
* Missing
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Misplaced
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Incomplete
MAJOR
MAJOR
* WRONG Label
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Insecurely attached
MAJOR
MAJOR -
* Not in specified location by more than 1/4
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Not in specified location by less than 1/4
MINOR
MINOR
* Sewn in crooked
PER SEVERITY
PERSEVERI IV
* Size and shade not as specified
MAJOR
MAJOR
Pressing
* Over pressed
MAJOR
PERSEVERI IV
* Distorted
MAJOR
PER SEVERI IV
* Wrinkles
MAJOR
PER SEVERI IV
* Buttons
* Missing functional buttons
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Missing decorative buttons
MAJOR
MINOR
* Misaligned buttons
MAJOR
MINOR
* Functional button Insecurely sewn
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Decorative button Insecurely sewn
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Size, type or color not as specified
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Damaged buttons
MAJOR
MAJOR
BUTTON HOLES
MAJOR
* Missing functional button holes
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Missing decorative button holes
MAJOR
MINOR
* Extra button holes
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Misaligned button holes
MAJOR
PER SEVERITY
* Broken or skipped stitches in button
MAJOR
MAJOR
holes
Embroidery
* Missing embroidery
MAJOR
MAJOR
* Misplaced embroidery
MAJOR
MAJOR
Final inspection of garments:
Before shipment the final evaluation of any garments lot is called final inspection to final audit. Final inspection consists of inspecting finished garments from the buyer’s point of view and the final inspection occurs after garments are packed in box. If it is done after garments are packed, then proper size and style markings on the boxes can also checked. In any case there should be a list of points to be checked in a garments including of a finished garments. The purpose of final inspection is conduct by the buyer’s representative. Most of the time the senior quality control personnel the buying house or from the industry are performed the final inspection. Some times the buyer engages third party inspection team.
Purposes of final inspection:
• Buyers can understand about the quality standard of the merchandise being purchased.
• Last opportunity to know the quality status of the garments lot for both buyer and supplier.
• It is an important part of quality control in garment industry.
• It is an obvious condition from buyer end to conduct the final inspection.
Sequence of final inspection of garments:
• Top perform a reasonable we have to maintain a sequence of different steps of the inspection are as follows:
o packing list verify / compare with p.o.sheet:
Before start the final inspection we have to check the final status of the lot with p.o. sheet and packing list. Are as follows:
• quantity
• color
• size
• Packing etc.
1. Inspection preparation :
To get accurate result with must have well preparation for final inspections are as follows:
Required facilities are:
1) Sufficient space
2) Sufficient light
3) Inspection table
4) Clean, noise free environment
5) Sufficient helping hand etc.
Required tools and equipments:
6) Packing list
7) Measuring tape
8) Arrow sticker
9) Marker pen
10) Highlight pen
11) Weight scale
12) Purchase order sheet
13) Quality specification sheet
14) Reference sample
15) Pick glass
16) Approved swatches
17) Finding and reporting format etc.
18) Metal detector
Carton checking:
There are some important points to be checked during inspection check points are:
19) quantity or carton
20) quality of carton:
a) ply of carton
b) Size of carton
c) Strength of carton
d) Color of carton etc.
21) Shipping marks
a) Main mark
b) Side mark
c) Merchandise description
22) Strapping/trapping
Carton selection:
From the total number of number of carton, we have to select sample carton and garment sample will be picked from those carton.
The methods of carton selection and point’s table considered are as follows:
o Methods of carton selections
o Points to be considered
Packing and packing check:
Now we have to open carton from those selected carton and check the packing methods used for the lot and the packing used whether it is as per specification. Check points are as follows:
23) Packing check:
a) Position of garment inside the carton
b) Inner carton
c) Protector
d) Poly bag
e) Assortment
f) Quality of garment
Packing check:
a) Packing materials must be checked with approved sample.
b) How it is used of attaching.
Sample selection:
For sample selection sampling plan should be followed and important points to be considered and few related terms to be discussed are as follows:
1) Sample:
A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot, the units of the sample being selected at random without regard to their quality. The number of units of a product in the sample is the sample size.
Lot or batch:
The term lot or batch shall mean “inspection lot “ or inspection batch that is a collection of units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected to determine conformance with the acceptability criteria.
Lot or batch size:
The lot or batch is the number of units of a product in a lot or batch.
AQL (acceptable quality level)
The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection, can be considered satisfactory as a product average.
Sampling plan:
Sampling plan depends on types of inspection to be performed such as
a) 100% check
b) Spot checking
c) Arbitrary sampling
24) Points to be considered:
a) Color
b) Size
c) Style
Garments checking:
Selected sample must be checked 100% check points are as follows:
1. Appearance
2. Materials conformance
3. Conformity of style
4. Color shade
5. Logos
6. Workmanship
7. Finishing
8. Cleanness
9. Damages
10. Weight
11. Fitness
12. Record of defects non- conformances:
13. Measurement checking
14. Defective sample draw for reference
15. Carton fill up
16. Sticker and signature
17. Reporting.
Quality Assurance:
.
Quality Assurance is something that everyone in the factory dose all the time. Everyone includes such as managers, designers, pattern makers, marker makers, cutlers, pressers, packers, machinists, and supervisors. All of those people must know what standards are necessary, must be able to detect defects and must know what to do to correct and prevent it happening again. The Japanese have been extremely successful in applying the idea to Japanese industry.
Quality Assurance is about assisting people to achieve desired standards helping them to do their job! Qualify control is as much an aspect of Quality Assurance as it is about checking whether things are going well or not, identifying the cause of a problem and applying the correct remedy. Actually Quality Assurance and Quality control are two sides of one coin, they cannot be separated. It dose make it easier though if we talk as if they were separate.
"Quality Assurance is a state of mind, a way of approaching the organization of production to achieve Quality" Quality control is a process, a set of activities designed and regulate the effectiveness of production to achieve Quality" Both of these ideas involve everyone in the company, managing director to casual worker, design to warehouse.
Definition of Quality Assurance as per BSI:
All activities and functions concerned with the attainment of quality (BS 4778)
Quality Assurance and management:
o Quality planning
o Quality advice and expertise
o Management of the quality system
o Training of personnel
o Analysis of customer complaints, warranty claims and product liability
A quality management system based on the fact that all functions share responsibility for quality, provides an effective method of acquiring and maintaining the desired performance standards. The quality department should not assume the direct responsibility for quality but should support advice and audit the work of the other functions; in much the same way as a financial auditor performs his duty without assuming responsibility for the profitability of the company.
The responsibility for actual control of quality during the operation of the transformation process, whether that is the production of artifacts, delivery of a service or the passing of information internally, rests squarely on the shoulders of the operators of the process.; this means that staff carrying out the work must be given the tools to enable the requirements to be met. The control of quality involves the quality of input materials, methods, equipment, processes and the appropriate instructions designed for the purpose of preventing failure.
To enable the responsibility to be met, organizations must use every device practicable to prevent, detect and correct errors that occur. This implies that, to achieve the control of quality, the variables which may affect quality and which can result from the actions of human beings, the nature of materials, and the performance of equipment, must all be controlled.
In Quality Assurance system, Quality to be builds including reliability into a product during its development stage. Development stage starts from the planning of the new'- product. Once properly install all these, will have well executed process control method and if necessary, inspection to be performed as well. In other words, will have a perfect product, which never had any kind of defect during manufacturing
QUALITY PLANNING:
Quality Policy
Quality Manual
QUALITY POLICY:
Establish priorities relative to
Materials
Processes
Training
Product Development
Customer Service etc
5s system
5 s concept:
It is a Japanese method of crating high quality, a highly productive and safe working environment
What is 5s?
It is a systematic 5-step method of organizing a work place.
Objectives of 5 s:
1. To reduce wastage of labor and effort
2. To reduce wastage of item
3. To reduce wastage of money
4. To reduce accidents
5. To reduce stress
6. To improve customer service
5s standards for
It stands for systematic steps of the process. In Japanese al the steps being with the letter‘s’
1. Seiri
2. Seiton
3. Seiso
4. Seiketsu
5. Shitsuke
5s activities in garment factory:
The book on 5s techniques for improved working environment in beagle explain in detail about the concept and implementation of 5s in general.
Following points are especially applicable to garment industry.
Seiri:
Classify all items around you; make it separate what is wanted from what is not wanted. Reduce clutter. Cut off threads, excess of pieces of materials, broken tools etc.
Seiton:
Storage areas should be located along the operating order
1. shelf for front cut materials
2. shelf for back cut material
3. shelf for sleeve cut materials
4. shelf for collar cut materials
5. shelf for front, back, in process part
6. shelf for sleeve in process part
7. shelf for collar in process part
8. shelf for finished product
Seiso:
Each operator (who operates a sewing machine)
1. To be provided screwdriver, brush, dust cloth and pieces of cloth to be used for sewing test.
2. To clear dust, with the brush, of the slits on the feed dog and near surface of the throat plate.
3. To clean up the inner surface of the shuttle body with the brush and the dust cloth.
4. To check the amount of oil pan and then remove dust and thread waste from the oil plan.
5. To check the needle tip.
6. To remove thread waste from the area around motor and v- belt.
7. To inspect the relation between the needle entry and the presser foot.
8. To carry out the sewing test to adjust the thread tension.
9. To wipe and clean the whole body of the sewing machine and the top of table, using the dust cloth.
10. To clean up the floor around the sewing machine.
In addition, the supervisor should make a study of cleaning tools to introduce better ones that provide upgraded efficiency.
Seiketsu:
1. Contains in containers have to be visually observed from outside.
2. The supervisor attaches a label to containers to allow anybody to know what is contained inside.
3. Control limits have to be given on controls chart.
4. The supervisor introduces the color control method.
5. The supervisor standardizes the control method.
Shitsuke:
1. The supervisor to check repeatedly whether operators fully understand direction.
2. The supervisor to provide the operators with the reason why the rules have to be followed. This will encourage the operators to observe the rules.
Developing comfortable atmosphere in which the operators frankly give suggestion among one another essential.
5-S steps points to be aimed
1 Seiri • Things placed on the work batch of each operator.
• Needle thread, bobbin
• The space under the lay-up table
2 Seiton • Use of shelves
• Thread, needle, presser foot and attachment
• Specification, patterns
3 Seiso • Workshop, mess hall, locker room
• Before the start of operation of sewing machine and after the end of work
• Lighting, fixture, air conditioner
4 Seiketsu • Laying down of rules for tidying, orderly placement and preparation of duty roster
• Dress
• Preventive maintenance
5 Shitsuki • Report, contact, consulting, compliments
• Notice of absence, late –coming and early leave.
• Change of ones assigned work and support to others work
5s ACTIVITY STEPS
Documentation for Export
Which the goods are being sent, these documents will include some or all of the following: consular invoice, commercial invoice, certificate of origin, bill of lading, packing list, health certificate, import license, and insurance certificate. In general, their purpose is to provide the foreign Customs authority with a complete, detailed description of the goods so that the correct import duty can be levied.
Sometimes they are required for the administration of exchange control regulations or import quotas and depending on the product, to safeguard public and animal health and prevent the spread of plant diseases. Statistical information about a country's imports is also based on these documents. Failure to complete the forms properly may lead to a fine and/or unnecessary delay in clearing the goods through foreign Customs. If the information given is found false, heavier fines may be imposed and/or the goods confiscated.
The preparation of such documentation is one of the tasks of an export firm's or of a shipping agent, known as a freight forwarder, whose services may be employed for a fee. In addition to the documents required by the foreign country, the exporter must also provide an export declaration.
Consular Invoice
This is a form, usually obtainable only from the Consulate of the importing country, on which the exporter or its agent must enter a detailed description of the goods being shipped. Certain countries require such a form.
On the consular invoice, there is space not only for the name of the goods but also for any marks carried, the number of the items, their weight, the value and origin of the goods and a declaration that the information given is correct.
There must be no erasures or "strike-over" in typing, pen-and-ink changes, or additions. In some countries, the goods must be described in terms of the customs tariff of the importing country and the tariff number of the items given. Most countries requiring consular invoice also insist that the document be "legalized" that is, have its accuracy sworn to by the exporter or its agent at the consulate of the importing country.
Commercial Invoice
Commercial Invoice is the export firm's invoice, addressed to the foreign importer describing the goods shipped and the total price that it must pay. However, some countries require the commercial invoice to be prepared on their own forms. Such forms are sometimes called customs invoices.
Countries that require a consular invoice also require a commercial invoice as additional proof of the details of the export shipment. Countries that do not require a consular invoice, uses the commercial invoice as the document upon which the import duty is based.
The exporter may also sometimes be asked, when providing an export quotation for the foreign buyer, to supply a pro forma commercial invoice. This document shows the foreign buyer what the commercial invoice will look like if the foreign buyer places the order. The exchange authorities in the foreign country sometimes require it before an import license is issued.
Certificate of Origin
Certificate of Origin is a document, which indicates the country in which the goods were produced, is required whenever preferential duties are claimed. Sometime, consular legalization of the document is necessary. Also, certification of the document by a Chamber of commerce is required.
Shipping Marks
The purpose of these marks is to identify your goods from those of other shippers. They should be made boldly, with waterproof and salt-proof ink, so that they can always be easily read. They should be in black, with red or orange for dangerous cargo. The marks should be in both English and the language of the country of destination. The final destination point should be made to stand out so that the package can be easily identified with the corresponding shipping documents and easily located for customs clearance and delivery.
To discourage theft, “blind marks” can be used that do not reveal the contents of the package. Product descriptions or trademarks should not be shown. The shipping marks must be exactly the same as those shown on the commercial invoice, bill of lading, etc. Some countries indicate exactly the shipping marks to be used. Such specifications include the size of lettering, their position on the containers, the method of applying the marks (brush or stencil), and the types of weights and measures to be used.
Some countries such as India require that the import permit number be marked on the packing case. In the case of cautions for handling, exporters are encouraged to use universally recognized cautionary marks such as a wineglass on the commercial invoice and bill of lading, etc. for "fragile", as well as words. All cautionary marks, international handling symbols, destination should be very distinct, on three surfaces of each crate.
Marks of Origin
The exporter, as well as marking the container, must ensure that the goods being shipped abroad have the required marks of origin.
Compulsory Marks of Origin
Many countries require that all imported goods, and the packages in which they come, be marked in a conspicuous place with the name of the country of origin. Exceptions are usually made for goods that cannot be marked, those that cannot be marked without injury, and those that can only be marked at prohibitive cost.
Corrective Marks of Origin
Other countries require that a mark of origin be placed on imported goods, if its absence would create a false impression about the origin of such goods. This can occur if the goods show the place of manufacture with the same name as that of place from the importing country (e.g., Toronto, Japan, compared with Toronto, Canada). Or when the label contains only the name of the importer or import agent, rather than that of the foreign manufacturer.
Marking Methods
Each country has regulations governing the manner in which imported goods should be marked, including the size of the letters. Some countries require, in addition to the name of the country of origin, the words "Made in" or" Produced in".
Sometimes, the language of the importing country must be used. As well as being legible and conspicuous, the mark should be non-erasable.
Labeling for Export
The exporter must also comply with any labeling requirements for its product in the importing country. These often exist for prepared goods, beverages, and pharmaceutical and toilet preparations. Usually, the label must show the manufacturer's name and address, a list of the ingredients, the weight or volume of the contents, and other relevant information.
Often, the required descriptions must be in the language and weights and measures system of the importing country. In some countries, certain products must be registered with the appropriate government department and the registration number shown on the label.
Delivery to the Dockside
One way is to use the service of a freight forwarder The shipping company's representative checks the number of items, their condition, shipping marks, weight, and perhaps size, and then issues a "dock receipt". The exporter keeps this dock receipt until the goods are loaded aboard the ship. After this has been done, the shipping company issues an ocean bill of lading to replace the dock receipt.
Another way to deliver goods to the ship is by rail. Small shipments are delivered to the local railway freight depots where they are consolidated with other shipments for the same port. Large shipments go by carload lots and are usually loaded at the exporter's premises. At the port, the shipping line has usually leased or has been assigned a shed in which all the box cars containing goods for the particular ship are unloaded.
The railways assume the responsibility for unloading the boxcars, and checking and placing the goods in the warehouse ready for loading abroad ship. The cost involved is included in the railway freight rate.
Loading the Goods aboard Ship:
When the exporter's goods have been unloaded at the dockside, it is the shipping company's responsibility to ensure that they are properly loaded aboard the correct ship. Usually, a stevedoring firm does this on behalf of the shipping company and the cost involved is already included in the freight rate paid by the exporter.
With the goods safely loaded aboard the ship, the shipping agent issues a "clean" ocean bill of lading to the exporter so long as no shortages or damaged crates, boxes, etc. have been discovered. If damage had been noted, the exporter can still obtain a clean bill of lading by signing a letter of indemnity that absolves the shipping line of any responsibility for the damage should insurance claim be made.
The bill of lading, in the required number of copies, is evidence of ownership and is negotiable - it is the key document that is surrendered to the foreign importer upon payment for the goods or acceptance of a time draft as specified in a letter of credit.
Truck Transportation
Truck transportation between Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand is quite convenient as it permits warehouse-to-warehouse transportation and reduces the handling involved in transshipment. However, it is more expensive than by freight train for heavy shipments.
Most exporters, if trucking suits their need, prefer to use commercial trucking companies to transport their goods.
Rail Transportation
There are three types of railway freight rates:
1. LCL ("less than carload lot") this is the most expensive rate and applies to small shipments based on a minimum charge for 100 lb.
2. CL ("carload" rate) this is the cheapest rate and applies to shipments 30,000 pounds or more.
3. "Pool-car rate" - this is an intermediate rate and involves the combining of shipments from different shippers.
Rail transportation is most suitable for his shipment if:
1. The goods are heavy.
2. The distance to be traveled not economical by truck.
3. The rail line is located fairly close to his premises and to the port of shipment for goods destined overseas.
Tariff Barriers
1. Tariff barriers and Non-tariff barriers, both includes import quotas, exchange controls, and other obstacles to trade. In some cases, these barriers effectively prevent the exporter from selling its goods in that foreign country. In other cases, they represent an extra cost of doing business that can be built into the export price.
A tariff: Is a tax levied by the foreign government on goods imported into that country (or import duty). The tariff increases the price at which the goods are sold in the importing country and therefore makes them less competitive with locally produced goods.
Types of Tariffs
A tariff may be one of the following four kinds:
(1) Ad valorem
(2) Specific
(3) Alternative
(4) Compound
1. Ad Valorem duty:
The kind most commonly used, is one that is calculated as a percentage of the value of the imported goods –
For example, 10, 25 or 35 per cent. This may be based, depending on the country, either on destination (c.i.f.), or on the value of the goods at the port in the country of origin (f.o.b.).
2. A Specific duty:
Is a tax of so much local currency per unit of the goods imported (based on weight, number, length, volume or other unit of measurement? Specific duties are often levied on foodstuffs and raw materials.
3. An Alternative duty:
Is where both an Ad valorem duty and A Specific duty are prescribed for a product, with the requirement that the more onerous one shall be Ad valorem duty value plus 10 cents per kilo.
4. Compound duties:
Are imposed on manufactured goods that contain raw materials that are themselves subject to import duty. The "specific" part of the compound duty (called compensatory duty) is levied as protection for the local raw material industry.
Dutiable Weights
Depending on the country, the dutiable weights used to calculate specific import duties may be the gross weight, the legal weight, or the net weight.
The dutiable weight is the actual weight upon which duty must be paid.
The gross weight is the weight of the goods and all interior, exterior containers and packing material.
The legal weight (used mainly by Latin American countries) is the weight of the goods and of the immediate interior containers.
The net weight is the weight of the goods without the packing materials.
However, in a few countries, it is defined as including the weight of the immediate container.
Very often, there is a fixed percentage allowance (called the tare) used by the customs authorities for determining gross weight from net weight, and vice-versa. Most countries using specific duties employ different types of dutiable weights for difference commodities.
It is essential for an exporter to know what dutiable weight is being used for its product as it may be able to vary its packing accordingly. In some countries (such as Switzerland, Venezuela and Colombia) most specific duties are levied on gross weight, whatever the nature of the goods
Export Transportation and Shipment
Quick! Because foreign buyers, in making decision to purchase, will be taking into account the exporter's delivery time. Fast delivery is obviously an important "competitive edge" for an exporter. Of course, the actual delivery date will depend on stocks, production as well as shipping time.
Carefully, because the foreign buyer wants to receive the goods intact. In this way, the exporter gains customer satisfaction and avoids trouble and expenses of filling insurance claims and reshipping all or part of the order.
Economically, because the freight cost can be a substantial part of the final export price. The lower the freight cost, the more competitive the export price quotation.
Flag Preference
In some cases, the foreign buyer arranges the transportation of the goods himself. Many countries now insist that their importers use the country's own merchant fleet or "flag line" for importing goods so as to conserve foreign exchange. Sometimes, as an incentive, they offer a lower rate of import duty and a lower consulate fee. When the foreign buyer arranges his own transportation, the exporter's only responsibility is to get the goods to the port of shipment.
Freight Forwarder
Many exporters, make their own transportation arrangements. Others delegate this task, on a fee basis, to specialized firms known as "Freight Forwarders". These can be either ocean “freight forwarder or air forwarders”. Such a firm can offer a variety of services:
1. Advising on the best routes and relative shipping costs
2. Booking the necessary space with the shipping or airline
3. Arranging with the exporter for packing and marking of the goods
4. Consolidating shipments from different exporters
5. Handling Customs clearance abroad
6. Arranging marine insurance for the shipment
7. Preparing the export documentation
8. Translating foreign language correspondence
9. Scrutinizing and advising on ability to comply with letters of credit.
According to its size, number of branches overseas, etc., a freight forwarder will offer all or only some of these services. However, all freight forwarders will advise on the booking of shipping space. Many freight forwarders handle both exports and imports and may also act as Customs brokers.
Alternative Shipping Methods
In shipping goods abroad, the exporter has various alternative methods. These include ship, truck, rail, air and parcel post.
The choice will depend on the nature of the product (light or heavy, fragile or sturdy, perishable or durable, high or low in value per cubic meter, etc); the distance to be shipped; available means of transportation; and relative freight costs.
Goods having high weight or cubic capacity or value ratio, the usual method of shipping overseas is by ocean cargo vessel. However, when speed is essential, air cargo may be preferred, although more expensive. For example, ski jackets are shipped from Germany to Japan by sea but towards the end of the ski season, air cargo is used.
Import Quotas
An exporter may find that the foreign country restricts mostly imports not only by means of tariffs but also by qualitative measures. These usually take the form of import quotas for each particular product. Once the quota for the period has been filled, no more import licenses are issued.
Types of Import Quotas:
There are three main types of import quota in use today:
1. Unilateral quotas.
2. Negotiated bilateral or multilateral quotas.
3. Tariffs quotas.
1. Unilateral Quotas:
These are quotas set by a country without pervious consultation or negotiation with others. Such a quota may be global or allocated. If it is global, the total volume of goods that may be imported is set regardless of the countries of origin or the importers and exporters involved. If it is allocated, the permitted volume of imports is allocated among countries of origin and private traders in accordance with some previous pattern.
2. Negotiated Quotas:
In this case, the importing country, after negotiations with the government of each exporting country, or with groups of its exporters, allots shares of the quota to each country. Often, with a bilateral negotiated quota, the exporting country is given the responsibility for issuing licenses to its exporter.
Sometimes a negotiated bilateral quota goes under the guise of a voluntary export quota - for example, the "voluntary" quotas that Japan places on its exports of man-made textiles to the United States. With a multilateral quota, the restriction is placed on the total amount of imports only, with no restriction as to source.
3. Tariff Quotas:
With this type of quota, a country allows a certain amount of a product to enter at a given rate of import duty or even duty free. Any excess amount is subjected to a much higher rate of duty.
Exchange Controls
Some countries restrict imports by limiting the amount of "exchange", or foreign currency, available to pay for them. Often, imports are classified into essential and non-essential or luxury goods. Foreign currency is made available at one rate of exchange for essential imports while a more limited amount of foreign currency is made available at a much higher rate of exchange for the luxury items such as foreign cars.
This restricts the imports of luxury goods and is taxed more heavily than essential goods through the sale of foreign currency at a "free market" rate of exchange rather than at the official one. Other countries achieve the same effect by levying exchange taxes at various rates according to the priority attached to the product to be imported.
With exchange control, anyone wishing to obtain foreign exchange must secure permission from the government. Such a system permits the government to restrict the demand for scare foreign exchange and to ration it out among different needs.
This rationing of foreign exchange also applies to importers: they must obtain a foreign exchange permit before they can import any goods and must pay a higher rate of exchange for imports of "luxury" or "non-essential" goods.
Exchange control, like import quotas, is therefore another very effective way of restricting imports as well as other types of foreign exchange spending. Together with tariffs and import quotas, it forms the main form of protectionism.
Trading Blocks
To trade with any member state of The EEC it is a legal requirement that, that product conform to the European directives.
Under the Treaty of Rome, which came into force at the beginning of 1959, Belgium, France, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands and Germany agreed to the gradual removal of all trade barriers among themselves on almost all goods produced within the region.
They agreed to the erection of a common tariff barrier on goods from outside and the removal of tariffs and import quotes among member countries. The organization that was established was called the European Economic Community or EEC or European Union or EU
Bill of Lading Online
Create the shipping document needed to move freight between two U.S. locations or from U.S. to Canada. Simply fill in the following fields to generate a completed Bill of Lading online. Two copies will be provided--one copy for you to give to your driver, and the other for you to keep for your records.
After you complete the fields below and click "Create Document," the form is generated. At this point, click "View Document," and the form will download to your desktop, allowing you to print and save the file.
Cutting Section
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